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良好印象(Favorable Impression media,簡稱Fimmedia)很榮幸成為首家華文媒體受邀參與英國權威飲食雜誌《餐廳》2016年度世界50大最佳餐廳(The World's 50 Best Restaurants 2016)排行榜頒獎典禮,在紐約華爾街現場見證了最佳餐廳殊榮首度由義大利餐廳Osteria Francescana奪得。(內含HD影音)

今年亞洲餐廳在前10大最佳餐廳中只佔一席,就是維持排名第8的東京Narisawa

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進步最多的分別是是香港置地文華東方酒店的法國餐廳Amber,由荷蘭籍主廚Richard Ekkebus掌舵的這家餐廳好評不斷終於由去年的第38位,

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升至第20,「去年名列第10名的曼谷Gaggan跌到23名令人意外,但是AmberRestaurant ANDRÉ的大幅度成長,表現不俗。」食評家Susan Jung表示

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台灣名廚江振誠位於新加坡的Restaurant ANDRÉ餐廳成績也不惶多讓,已連續6年登榜,今年公布名列第32(也是有史以來最佳名次)時,比去年整整進步了12名,當主廚Andre Chiang起身致意,現場掌聲不斷,後勢看漲。

「我總是說這個名單不只是排名、或是誰在誰之上,來這個活動就像是參加一個世界性廚師的聚會,來見世界各地來的朋友意義大於誰得第幾名!」江振誠說。

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今年最大贏家當然是擠下去年冠軍西班牙羅卡兄弟餐廳(ElCeller de Can Roca)登上王座的Osteria Francescana,由名廚Massimo Bottura掌舵也是首家獲此殊榮的義大利餐廳。

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獲獎前呼聲就很高的Bottura聽到自己是冠軍時仍喜不自勝帶著準備好的義大利國旗上台擁著在紐約生長的太太Gilmore喜愛藝術的他說,「優秀的餐廳猶如博物館,有著教育的功能,顧客在這裡駐足,我們利用烹飪技法來連結農業真正的創造者是農人與他們的食材透過我們(指廚師)把其呈現出來。」

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名單上最令人驚訝的是,丹麥哥本哈根餐廳Noma2009年來始終保持前3名的名次,今年卻落居第5。部分評審認為,總廚René Redzepi帶著團隊今年年初在澳洲Syney長達三個月的客座,導致在丹麥的餐廳關閉數月,是排名之所以掉落的主因。

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而今年的餐廳大贏家是主辦地主國美國,第3名正是獎落美國紐約的Eleven Madison Park(簡稱EMP),「我覺得自己就是要專心經營在紐約的市場。」主廚Daniel Humm表示。

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堅持在高級法式餐飲外,還要融入紐約風格的味道在內,讓EMP不但是米其林3星、同時也擁有紐約時報給出的4顆星好評,殊榮不斷。

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人氣很高的芝加哥餐廳Alinea,從去年的26名躍升到15成績不俗,曾生過大病的主廚Grant Achatz對獎項看得很淡,卻很開心能參與這場盛會,他說,「也許之後能在芝加哥、在上海、東京、新加坡等地舉辦,這就像是一個廚師聚會的大party!」

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另一家紐約法式餐廳Le Bernardin則小降幾名,這次是No.24。而Estela餐廳首次入榜,奪得44名,去年得到One To Watch獎項的舊金山 Saison,一入榜就來勢洶洶,獲得第27名。

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法國蔬食之神Alain Passard 主掌的餐廳Arpège獲得第19名,雖然輸給第6名的法國Mirazur,不過另外獲得終身成就獎的Alain Passard,上台時還慎重其事地準備講稿,給于大會十足的面子!

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得到One to Watch的東京Den主廚Zaiyu Hasegawa,是備受期待的新興主廚

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特別值得一提的是,典禮前我們訪問了知名三星主廚Yannick alléno在典禮後的party遇上了另一名法國廚神Alain Duccase兩人的巴黎米其林三星餐廳雖在50大之外卻也紛紛現身紐約足見在米其林評選之外法國主廚們也愈來愈重視世界50大的排名

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西班牙餐廳依然是50大餐廳的主流,名列第16 名的Azurmendi由主廚Eneko Atxa掌舵,近來被評選為歐洲第一名廚師的他,在中生代廚師中依舊被看好;特別值得關注的是西班牙大廚Ferran Adrià的弟弟Albert Adrià,他的餐廳Tickets大幅上升13名、來到第29名,已有接班架勢。

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事實上北歐餐廳在今年整體表現略微受挫,除了丹麥的Geranium重新進榜晉升到第28名外,另一位重新進榜的則是挪威的De Librije位居第38丹麥的Relae40瑞典餐廳Fäviken41

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還有特別值得關注的是第33名的澳洲墨爾本餐廳Attica,明年將是世界50大餐廳主辦國,也是名廚的 Ben Shewry勢必成為大家關注的焦點,不過他顯得老神在在,認為不需要給自己太大的壓力。

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南美洲的主廚,以祕魯餐廳表現最為亮眼,祕魯的Central餐廳仍然是第4,主廚Virgilio Martinez仍然引領風潮

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另一間同樣在祕魯的Maido日裔主廚津村光晴(Mitsuharu Tsumura)今年也取得了第13名的好成績再加上第30名的Astrid y Gastón祕魯菜幾乎已成為潮流趨勢

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儘管50大餐廳排名仍有爭議,但正如同江振誠主廚告訴《New York Times》的話,「這是一個世界餐飲的潮流和指標,因為這些世界的廚師們選擇跳脫出自己的舒適圈,迫使自己往前進,領導未來廚藝的新視野。」

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「日本餐廳的表現只能說持平,龍吟(Nihonryori RyuGin)雖然名次跌到No.31,但像這次獲得特殊矚目獎項的的東京Zen餐廳,我認為未來很看好。」中村孝則表示。

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Susan Jung表示,亞洲的評審和世界區的是不同的,所以呈現出來的結果也大異其趣!

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The World’s 50 Best Restaurants brings together a unique community of extraordinary culinary talent to celebrate global gastronomy. Featuring restaurants from 23 countries spread

across six continents, the list provides an annual snapshot of the greatest gastronomic experiences across the globe.

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This year, the awards were hosted in New York for the first time as 50 Best begins a global tour of gastronomic destinations.Chef-owner Massimo Bottura is renowned for his twists on traditional Italian culinary ingredients–his Five Ages of Parmigiano Reggiano sees the region’s famed cheese served in forms and textures most diners will never have previously experienced.

Spain also has plenty to celebrate with three restaurants in the top 10 including last year’s No.1El Celler de Can Roca(now at No.2)

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Azurmendi at No.16 and Mugaritz at No.7. Barcelona‟s Tickets by Albert Adrià, also rises 13 places to No.29.France can rejoice with three of its chefs taking home individual awards.Alain Passard, who celebrates 30 years of his globally acclaimed Paris restaurant,Arpège(No.19),takes the 2016 Diners  Club Lifetime Achievement Award.Mirazur in Menton moves into the top 10 at No.6.Steirereck from Austria highest Climber Award No.9

New York‟s Estela (No.44) is also a newcomer, while Alinea in  Chicago climbs 11 places on the list to No.15.2016 also sees the introduction of a new Addition to The World‟s 50 Best Restaurants portfolio: The Ferrari Trento Art of Hospitality Award is presented to Eleven Madison Park(No.3) in New York.

A new entry in 2015,Maido from Peru.Takes the Highest Climber Award having risen 31 places to No.13. Fellow Lima restaurant Central holds its position at No.4.

The Clove Club in the UK wins the Highest New Entry Award, after entering the list at No.26. Brett Graham‟s The Ledbury in London also climbs six places to No.14.

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The restaurants from Asia feature on the list this year. Narisawa in Tokyo remains at No.8. Restaurant André in Singapore (No.32) and Amber in Hong Kong (No.20) are both high risers, climbing14 and 18 places respectively.Scandinavia also has plenty to celebrate with five restaurants on  this list.

Former No.1 Noma now sits at No.5, as fellow Danish restaurant Geranium makes a high re-entry at No.28. There is another impressive re-entry to the list for Netherlands‟ De Librije  at No.38.Last year‟s winner of the Sustainable Restaurant Award, Copenhagen’s Relae,reclaims the title for 2016and also climbs five  places to No.40.Sweden‟s Fäviken sits close by at No.41.   

Here is the World's 50 Best Restaurants 2016 full list:

 

1. Osteria Francescana, Modena (Italy) – WORLD’S BEST RESTAURANT AND BEST RESTAURANT IN EUROPE

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2. El Celler de Can Roca, Girona (Spain)

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3. Eleven Madison Park, New York (USA) – BEST RESTAURANT IN NORTH AMERICA

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4. Central, Lima (Peru) – BEST RESTAURANT IN SOUTH AMERICA

 

5. Noma, Copenhagen (Denmark)

 

6. Mirazur, Menton (France)

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7. Mugaritz, San Sebastian (Spain)

 

8. Narisawa, Tokyo (Japan) – BEST RESTAURANT IN ASIA

 

9. Steirereck, Vienna (Austria)

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10. Asador Etxebarri, Atxondo (Spain)

 

11. D.O.M. , Sao Paulo (Brazil)

 

12. Quintonil, Mexico City (Mexico)

 

13. Maido, Lima (Peru) – HIGHEST CLIMBER AWARD

 

14. The Ledbury, London (UK)

 

15. Alinea, Chicago (USA)

 

16. Azurmendi, Larrabetzu (Spain)

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17. Piazza Duomo, Alba (Italy)

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18. White Rabbit, Moscow (Russia)

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19. Arpège, Paris (France)

 

20. Amber, Hong Kong (Hong Kong)

 

21. Arzak, San Sebastian (Spain)

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22. The Test Kitchen, Cape Town (South Africa) – BEST RESTAURANT IN AFRICA

 

23. Gaggan, Bangkok (Thailand)

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24. Le Bernardin, New York (USA)

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25. Pujol, Mexico City (Mexico)

 

26. The Clove Club, London (UK) – HIGHEST NEW ENTRY

 

27. Saison, San Francisco (USA)

 

28. Geranium, Copenhagen (Denmark)

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29. Tickets, Barcelona (Spain)

 

30. Astrid Y Gastón, Lima (Peru)

 

31. Nihonryori RyuGin, Tokyo (Japan)

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32. Restaurant André, Singapore (Singapore)

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33. Attica, Melbourne (Australia) – BEST RESTAURANT IN AUSTRALASIA

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34. Restaurant Tim Raue, Berlin (Germany) – NEW ENTRY

 

35. Vendôme, Bergisch Gladbach (Germany)

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36. Boragò, Santiago (Chile)

 

37. Nahm, Bangkok (Thailand)

 

38. De Librije, Zwolle (Netherlands)

 

39. Le Calandre, Rubano (Italy)

 

40. Relae, Copenhagen (Denmark) - SUSTAINABLE RESTAURANT AWARD

 

41. Fäviken, Järpen (Sweden)

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42. Ultraviolet, Shanghai (China)

 

43. Biko, Mexico City (Mexico)

 

44. Estela, New York (USA) – NEW ENTRY

 

45. Dinner by Heston Blumenthal, London (UK)

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46. Combal.Zero, Rivoli (Italy)

 

47. Schloss Schauenstein, Fürstenau (Switzerland)

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48. Blue Hill at Stone Barns, Tarrytown (USA)

 

49. Quique Dacosta, Denia (Spain)

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50. Septime, Paris (France)

 

良好印象專題(紐約)採訪組

責任編輯:Jacky Yang(Taipei)

 

THE CHEF(ASIAN)

 

Editor-in-ChiefJadon Lin(HK)

 

Managing Editor:Cathy Chao

 

Associate Senior Editor :Jacky Yang (TW)

 

Editor : :Gong kin Yang (TW)

 

Senior ReporterGabbana(TW)

 

 

 

採訪協力:The World's 50 Best Restaurants、William Reed Business Media

 

 

文章採訪: 2015 New York紐約

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