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每個科學家都需要自己的實驗室猶如科學家般的現代主廚當然也需要以印度分子料理聞名世界的Gaggan Anand自然也要走在先鋒之列。結合了高科技的Gaggan餐廳實驗室去年底在曼谷亮相了,讓我們帶著你一窺究竟。(內含HD影音)

 

 

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兩層樓的閣樓空間,由閃亮亮的黑白棋盤地板迎接賓客,充滿著Vintage的氛圍。上了二樓更是豁然開朗,透明的玻璃天窗讓這裡感覺格外明亮几淨!行政主廚兼創辦人Gaggan Anand正在實驗室的一角翻攪著食物,周圍佈滿著精密的儀器,讓他看起來不折不扣是一位「美食科學家」!

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是冷卻裝置、爆破器嗎?還是煙霧製造機??一旁的客人竊竊私語,他們坐在木製的桌前,正面圍繞著實驗室,「這是脫水器。」Gaggan的主廚Rydo Anton在一旁解釋著。

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客人們陸續就座後,戲劇化地燈光突然轉為昏暗,正當人們以為電力出現狀況時,Gaggan俏皮地說,「電影要開演了!」原來他手拿遙控器,正在控制著玻璃天窗的燈影,這下讓大夥都不禁完爾地笑了。

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「我接下來的用餐主題是Bite()!」像一位劇場的大師般,Gaggan邊做邊為賓客講解,首先上來的是一口大小、八樣小點,每一樣都來自Gaggan的靈光乍現,譬如湯勺裝的優格雞蛋,靈感便是來自他崇拜的El Bulli餐廳;綿密化掉的咖哩蛋糕則是印度甜點的啟發;吃到酸咖哩豬肉時,他解釋,「這道菜在印度有400年歷史了,我想透過變化,讓人們還記得傳統的料理。」

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上到芒果海膽聖代時,他跟我們透露,近期曼谷上等的日本海膽缺貨,他找得辛苦,但既然菜單已開出,「我就要使命必達!」略帶苦笑地表達出身為亞洲第一名餐廳廚師的壓力。

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主菜部分,除了Gaggan想要呈現的印度加爾各答當地的菜式到到傳統的北印度菜外,魔幻蘑菇日本抹茶也很吸睛。「我很喜歡利用菇類食材,我覺得這是上天賜予人類的禮物。」此外,Gaggan本人非常著迷日本傳統,所以在近期的菜單中,他都加入抹茶的動作在裡頭,儘管最後客人喝到的是番茄水果加山葵湯!

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「曼谷是一個沒有四季的城市,對chef而言尋找食材就是一個挑戰;但我儘量讓自己的菜式呈現出四季的變化。」在Gaggan自己親手挑選的歐美Rock樂聲中,菜式的更迭交替裡,我們不但完成了一場饗宴,更像是在這fancy的空間內、經歷了一場Gaggan主導的奇幻旅程,令人久久無法忘懷。

 

 

 

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Yogurt Explosion(優格爆炸)

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Edible Plastic Spiced Nuts(食用塑膠辣堅果)

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Idly Sambhar(米豆蒸糕咖喱炖蔬菜) 

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Aam Ka Panna(印度青芒果汁)

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Uncooked Curry Cookie(生咖哩餅乾)

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Pork Vindaloo(酸咖哩豬肉) 

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Black Forest Gateau(黑森林蛋糕)

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Khakra Eel Sandwich(鰻魚三明治)

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Mango Uni Sundae(芒果海膽聖代)

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Charcoal(木炭)

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Magic Mushroom(奇幻蘑菇)

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Red Matcha(紅色的抹茶)

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Rangoli(印度圖騰)

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I want my Curry(我想要咖哩)

Peach Snowball(水蜜桃雪球)

Mango Duet Lollipop

(以上菜單為201610)

 

Taken by World’s 50 best restaurant comment:

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What makes it special: Visitors flock from far and wide to visit the two-time No.1 in Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants, and it’s not just for Gaggan’s huge personality. The 19-part tasting menu dubbed The Gaggan Experience is as much about exploring unique modern interpretations of Indian cuisine as it is about enjoying the relaxed colonial house atmosphere and the chef’s ebullient company.

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What to expect: A meal begins with a multitude of molecular bites, followed by a succession of inventive dishes that each tell their own tale. Red Matcha is a tea ceremony of tomatoes, while The Story of a Fish Called Kin-Medai breaks down a fish from face to fin. I Want My Curry! is served in a traditional Indian tiffin box containing rice, naan and tikka masala.

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Cocktail connoisseur: The cocktail selection is as elaborate and creative as the dinner, with delights such as Gaggan’s take on the Indian classic, coconut lassi.

Worth noting: Dreams of a test kitchen came true after recent renovations to the converted house in which the restaurant resides.

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Other ventures: Comfort food restaurant Meatlicious opened in Bangkok in late 2015 serving beer, burgers and bites such as ceviche, quinoa salads and Gaggan’s favourite pasta dish. Although the chef is the mastermind behind the venture, it technically belongs to his wife because, being the good Hindu son that he is, Gaggan promised his mother he wouldn’t make money from beef.

 

地址:68/1 Soi Langsuan, Ploenchit Road, Lumpini, Bangkok

TEL+66 2 652 1700

http://www.eatatgaggan.com/

 

營業時間:

全年無休

晚餐 18:00-23:00

一律以套餐THB 4000

另需支付 10% 的服務費與政府稅7%

 

獲選:

2016亞洲五十間最佳餐廳第一名(2015 Asia's 50 Best Restaurants )NO.1

 

良好印象Thailand food &HOTEL

 

責任編輯:Jacky Yang(Taipei)

THE CHEF(ASIAN)

Editor-in-ChiefJadon Lin(HK)

Full Senior EditorLathan Wu (HK)

Associate Senior Editor :Jacky Yang (TW)

Editor : :Gong kin Yang (TW)

Senior ReporterGabbana(TW)

 

※良好印象美食免責聲明※

 

【本篇文章是由記者前往實地試吃,非商業廣告稿,純新聞發佈,享受美食純粹個人觀感,為表公正不做美食評論與幫餐廳背書,本圖片是良好印象實地採訪拍攝】

採訪協力:Gaggan

 

 

 

文章採訪: 2016 Bangkok 曼谷

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