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乍聞東京寶格麗餐廳你也許會先被BVLGARI這個大品牌所吸引不過我們今天要陳述的是它完整高規格的餐飲與服務精神特別是由主廚Luca Fantin所領軍的廚房團隊,創建出Il Ristorante Luca Fantin的Fine dining品牌,他們充滿熱情、擁有無可取代的團隊合作,同時還有熱切服務客人的決心!(內含影音介紹)

 

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這天Luca Fantin找來他們的好朋友-擁有香港澳門米其林三顆星星的Umberto Bombana來進行”4 hands”的客座主廚活動,身為大主廚的Bombana顯得相當開心,他告訴我們,「我是東京寶格麗剛開幕時的主廚!」重回舊地,Bombana對此地多了一份親切感!

 

Luca Fantin

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東京寶格麗餐廳的靈魂人物是來自義大利的行政主廚 Luca Fantin,早年曾於 La Pergola、Akelarre 與 Mugaritz 等多家歐洲米其林餐廳工作。

Luca自2009年起被網羅至東京的Bulgari Ginza Tower 設立東京旗艦店Il Ristorante - Luca Fantin,並於 2017 年開設第二家Bulgari Resort Bali.從2011年至今,在luca帶領下餐廳連續多年獲得《東京米其林指南》的一星殊榮。以精緻的菜餚以及對經典義大利菜色的新鮮詮釋著名,他的菜式融合了傳統手藝與最頂級的當地與季節食材。

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「Luca主廚對日本當季食材非常重視,只要發現有高品質的蔬果或是漁獲、肉品,他會不遠千里探訪。」千葉縣的食材供應商社長畝田謙太郎表示。Luca笑著對我們說,他剛來到日本時,當時的社會風氣仍是封閉,許多農夫與供應商並不容易接納外國人,於是Luca下定決心苦學日文、同時只要打聽到那裡有質量俱佳的食材,他會帶著團隊跋山涉水而來,直到感動農夫或漁夫為止!

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在人聲鼎沸的東京築地市場,Luca正聚精會神挑選義大利麵所需要的海膽廠商,一聽商家說今天進來最好的是”羽立水產”,他毫不猶豫立即下手,「顧客的嘴是挑的,品質只要有所差錯,會立刻被發現!」他的菜式中有一道招牌是義大利risotto 搭配白鰻魚,這頂級白鰻是特別從京都而來,也是Luca多年關係的經營,讓他能從日本供應商中,拿到最高品質的生鮮海產。

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他認真地說,「廚師的技巧固然重要,時令食材更被日本或是外國饕客所重視…」這是他始終堅持食材一定要最佳的原則。

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Luca的菜式輕淡又兼具口感(這是多年下來在日本所養成),不過技法仍有傳統正宗義式與現代感,例如可食用花朵化身為繁花似錦的菜餚,豐富的色彩和藝術性的裝飾為饕客視覺上帶來賞心悅目的衝擊。

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Luca主廚是唯一一位在日本獲得米其林星級的義大利主廚,亦被著名義大利指南Identità Golose 稱之為「全球最佳義大利主廚」,並獲得Gambero Rosso 所稱「最佳義大利餐廳」的榮譽。

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在2016年,他發行了華麗的食譜著作—《La Cucina di Luca Fantin》,由包括Andrea Petrini...在內等知名的作家所撰寫。

 

Umberto Bombana

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他出身於北義大利貝加莫地區(Bergamo)、也是倫巴底地區的一個城市。這區的主要是以製作起司最為出名,義大利百分之八十都來自這地區。也因為靠近阿爾卑斯山脈(Alps)、所出產的乾酪的品質十分甘甜。這區還「特產」專門服務皇室和貴族的廚師,像1655年當時最出名的大廚Bartolomeo stefaniu,就是出身於此地。

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Bombana的學廚之路,他曾拜在義大利米其林大師Ezio Santin門下,這位大師來頭不小、號稱「義大利星星之王」、得星最多的廚師,就跟法國的Joel Robuchon一樣的地位,當然,這兩位大師都曾到過8 1/2 Otto e Mezzo BOMBANA享用Bombana的料理。

1993年時Bombana剛到香港,先到中環麗嘉酒店Toscana義大利餐廳擔任行政總廚十五年,他精湛獨特的廚藝轉眼間就讓其餐廳成了香港最高檔的餐廳之一。但好景不長,2008年的金融風暴下Toscana義大利餐廳歇業,Bombana終於有足夠的時間重新思考他的料理視野。在2009年,Bombana先和好友Roland Schuller開創新餐廳The Drawing Room,不到一年的時間,就獲得了米其林一星的榮譽。

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2010年Bombana在香港終於開了一間真正屬於自己的餐廳,取名為8 ½ Otto e Mezzo BOMBANA,同名於義大利知名導演費里尼Federico Fellini於1963年所執導黑白片《八部半》(8 ½Otto e Mezzo)。

8 1/2 Otto e Mezzo BOMBANA開幕後、更連續二年得到米其林二星,2013年更躍升米其林三星至今,也是唯一一間在海外得到如此殊榮的義大利餐廳。今年更獲選亞洲五十大餐廳(Asia’s 50 best restaurants)第4名以及終身成就廚師獎得主。

 

 

exclusive dinnwe with chef umberto bombana

chef Umberto Bombana

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Melon soup”pata negra ”哈密瓜湯品

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Black truffle bruschetta黑松露大蒜橄欖油麵包

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Marinated tuna tartare醃製鮪魚塔塔

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Homemade tagliolini 手工製義大利寬麵刨黑松露

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Brittany blue loberster布列塔尼藍龍蝦

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Hazelnut and chocolate 榛果巧克力

 

chef Luca Fantin

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Chips 薄片

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Corn玉米

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Abalone with variation of beans 鮑魚和多樣的豆子

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Carnaroli rice risotto with eel義大利燉飯和白鰻

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Grilled beef with textures of salad 烤牛肉和細緻的沙拉

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Melon哈密瓜甜點(由來自義大利羅馬的甜點主廚Fabrizio Fiorani所發想)

 

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聞名國際的Bulgari 自 1884 年創立,百年之間,受到熱愛奢華珠寶的時尚人士所推崇,觸角延伸亞洲之後,在美食潮流之都日本東京銀座,打造了一整棟的宏偉建築,低樓層為全球佔地面積最大的品牌專賣店,高樓層則規畫了眾多餐飲設施,如 Il Ristorante Luca Fantin 餐廳、Il 酒吧與 IlCioccolato Ginza 等,皆融合了奢華、悠閒與溫暖的生活風格,吸引了許多對於精緻美食熱衷的食客前來。

Luca Fantin

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 Based in Tokyo since 2009, Luca has worked at some of the world’s top-ranked restaurants including La Pergola in Rome, where he was sous chef under Heinz Beck. His style is a contemporary interpretation of traditional Italian cuisine, based on the use of topquality Japanese local raw materials that are elaborated with refined techniques and great creativity.

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Preferring slow cooking at low temperature rather than sautéed ingredients, his cookery is extremely light and authentic using herbs and edible flowers such as borage, calendula, or rosemary to flavour his dishes.

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His culinary creativity is particularly expressed with the way he cooks pasta, requiring a perfect harmony of consistencies. Some of his signature dishes include the “Pappa al Pomodoro” with crab, black olive chips and herb as well as the “Cacio & Pepe” homemade tagliolini with scallops, black truffle and chive-flavoured oil.

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dessert design by Fabrizio Fiorani

Luca Fantin’s renowned cuisine added to the perfect combination of contemporary luxury and tradition, have established Il Ristorante as one of the most sophisticated dining experiences in Tokyo. Since 2014 he has taken part to Epicurea, the global gourmet festival of the Bulgari Hotel in Milan, where the most prestigious chefs worldwide such as René Redzepi, Virgilio Martinez, Yoshihiro Narisawa, present a special menu in the frame of the Bulgari Hotel.

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dessert design by Fabrizio Fiorani

In 2014 he was awarded “Best Italian Chef in the World” by the prestigious Italian culinary guide Identità Golose by Paolo Marchi, the founder of the guide. This is the second recognition for Luca Fantin whose restaurant “Il Ristorante” at the Bulgari Ginza Tower had received one Michelin star in 2011. From April 2015, the restaurant is called Il Ristorante Luca Fantin including the name of the chef. Luca Fantin also brought Epicurea food festival to Tokyo with top chefs of the world such as Massimo Bottura, Andoni Luis Aduriz, Carlo Cracco and Rodolfo Guzman.

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When it’s not possible to jet off to Japan, foodies from all over the world are now able to discover his delectable creativities through the beautiful, illustrated volume and its luxury slipcase LA CUCINA DI LUCA FANTIN. Published by ASSOULINE, the book reads as an exquisite culinary collection, featuring thirty-two of Fantin’s original recipes. A sophisticated, stunning coffee-table book, its pages gleam with original photography and detail Fantin’s inspiration for each dish.  

 

Bombana

A native of Bergamo in Northern Italy, he was trained at Centro di Formazione Alberghiera and apprenticed under the talented Ezio Santin at Antica Osteria del Ponte, now a Michelin starred restaurant outside Milan. His impeccable talent soon took him around the world. In 1983, he joined the famous Rex Il Ristorante in Los Angeles, where he was lauded for his simple yet refined regional cooking. The restaurant, owned by Mauro Vincenti, is a regular venue for post Oscar parties. Adding to his foundation were stints in the kitchen with other top chefs such as Gianfranco Vissani, Michel Rostang and Pinuccio Alia.

 

Bombana then arrived in Hong Kong in August 1993 to open Toscana and quickly established it as an iconic destination of the fine dining scene. His distinctive flair and passion for modern yet authentic northern Italian cooking offered Hong Kong 20 years of impressive dining.

 

Chef Bombana was awarded the Best Italian Chef in Asia by the Italian Culinary Institute for Foreigners (ICIF) in 2002 and then Worldwide Ambassador of the White Truffle in 2006 by the Piedmontese Regional Enoteca Cavour (Italy).

 

In January 2010 Chef Bombana made his dream come true to open 8 ½ Otto e Mezzo BOMBANA in Hong Kong, to delight the gourmet palates again with his unique sophisticated and yet contemporary culinary creations. It is a tribute to his favorite Italian film director Federico Fellini’s 1963 autobiographical movie “8 ½”, which is a celebration of both Italian lifestyle and art.

In December 2010, the restaurant was awarded with two Michelin stars after only eleven months of opening. It has further achieved three stars in 2012 Michelin Guide Hong Kong & Macau and retained the honor in 2013 edition, becoming the first Italian restaurant outside of Italy to achieve such honor.

In 2013, Chef Bombana’s restaurant in Hong Kong is listed one of the “World’s 50 Best Restaurants”.He become the winner of Asia’s 50 best restaurants diner’s club lifetime achievement award2017.

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東京寶格麗餐廳Bulgari Il Ristorant Luca Fantin

地址: Ginza Tower 2-7-12 Ginza, Chuo-ku Tokyo

電話: +81 3 6362 0555

營業時間

午餐11:30-14:00(ラストオーダー)

晚餐 17:30-20:30 (ラストオーダー)

定休日:星期日

 

良好印象Thailand food &HOTEL

 

責任編輯:Jacky Yang(Taipei)

 

THE CHEF(ASIAN)

Editor-in-ChiefJacky Yang (TW)

Full Senior EditorCathy Chao(TW)

Editor : :Gong kin Yang (TW)

Senior ReporterGabbana(TW)

 

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【本篇文章是由記者前往實地試吃,非商業廣告稿,純新聞發佈,享受美食純粹個人觀感,為表公正不做美食評論與幫餐廳背書,本圖片是良好印象實地採訪拍攝】

採訪協力:東京寶格麗餐廳Bulgari Il Ristorant

 

 

文章採訪: 2017 TOKYO 東京

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